There are few places where I've felt as deep into the middle of nowhere as in Agdz. Just a couple hours up from Zagora, it sits at a wide and dramatic bend of the Draa, its palmeraie forming a broad arch along the river's edge, while beyond the palms the landscape turns to pure desolation. A good amount of traffic filters through, moving north to Ourzazate or south to Zagora, but few make a meaningful stop in Agdz. Which made it an ideal choice for getting my work done. A few kilometers down the road from Agdz's central square and its handful of street-side restaurants was the massive, refurbished casbah of Qaid Ali. Complete with pool, wifi and nightly live music in its little restaurant, Qaid Ali's place would be my home for the next four days. 

On the final day I'd just finished up an "Insider's Guide" to another place I'd never been, leaving me free at last to explore Agdz. I took off into the palmeraie towards the tajine-topped peak at the valley's bend, searching for a crumbling casbah that supposedly rose just beyond the river's banks. Farmers occasionally popped out of nowhere, inviting me to soak in their cool water channels and offering directions. From the way their pointers turned out they seemed to be as lost as me. I never found the casbah, but returned to Qaid Ali in time for another swim. The next morning, my work complete, I'd head to the coast, leaving the the vast deserts and palmeraies behind.  

1 comment:

Shery said...

Keep posting, friend.I am enjoying reading your blog. Gorgeous pics!