From Tafraoute, I took a 40km bike-ride through the Ameln Valley. I'd heard great things about the valley. One of the most underrated destinations in Morocco, supposedly. Scattered with medieval casbahs and lush palmeraies and bounded by vertical red-granite cliffs and the inhospitable Anti Atlas, it was also said to be home to some of Morocco's most kind and hospitable Berbers, the Cheuh. I may have passed through too quickly on the bike because I can confirm none of those things. A bit of red granite, sure. But after my time in the Ziz and Draa Valleys, the Ameln seemed as dramatic as North Texas. Within an hour of my ride my mind had already turned to the beach.

I rolled back into town in the afternoon to feast on some lentils and board the next bus to Tiznit. Beside Les Pierres Bleues and a good dose of endorphins, the best part of my short stop in Tafraoute was a much-needed new pair of Berber shoes.

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