Just hours before our Ryanair flight to Malaga, from where we'd hop over to Tangiers and spend a few weeks in Morocco, my new passport still hadn't arrived. Mailed two days earlier from Copenhagen, it should have made it the day before. Unfortunately and to much irritation, despite our having two weeks' rent left on our apartment, the landlord had gone ahead and changed the name on the mail box, meaning the passport could have been en route to the embassy in Copenhagen or gathering dust in some dead-end mail room. We missed the flight. 

Still, with an expiring Schengen visa and several more flights booked for the summer, we couldn't hang around in Europe. Within an hour of frantic flight-searching I found our new ticket out: 100€ to Agadir. Of course, we did have a few other obstacles: we were about to go broke, I still was in need of a passport, and our new flight was departing the next evening, from Berlin (not particularly close to Aarhus). 

An exhausting 24 hours of hitchhiking ensued. From the ferry port in Aarhus, an older woman gave us a lift to Copenhagen, where the embassy, which assumed the passport lost in the mail, quickly put together a temporary passport. A ferry to Germany, three more free rides south, a few hours' sleep at a doctor couple's home in a Hamburg suburb, a metro ride, bus ride, and final metro ride to the airport got us there on time, rendering our frantic sprint to the gate unnecessary. 

Landing in Agadir, we taxied to Inezgane then bused north along the coast for a few hours. We each slept about 12 hours that night in a riad within Essaouira's old white-washed medina, where we'd spend the next four lazy days.

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